Art tripping in the South of France, Saint Paul de Vence…

Matisse saw it, so did Chagall, Van Gogh, Renoir, Cocteau and Picasso…. the light in the South of France is something special and inspiring as are the colors, geography and botany. This is why they all came to this part of the world to paint. As a result, today, this area is sprinkled with several splendid little museums which showcase the incredible art of the painters who spent time here over the years. These museums are a delightful way to bring a touch of culture, history and beauty to your day as you explore the South of France.

One of the most concentrated collections of art can be found in Saint Paul de Vence, a medieval hill town about 20 minutes from the sea. Today, I’ll take you on a stroll around the town to get a feel for the place, beginning at the Foundation Maeght where you can find this enormous mosaic called Les Amoureux {above} by Chagall just out in the courtyard, it represents the founders of the Foundation, Aime & Marguerite Maeght {art collectors} welcoming visitors.

Another significant piece by Chagall  is La Vie, which tells the story of the artists real life experiences as well as his dreams.

Here’s an intense and beautiful piece by Pierre Bonnard, L’Eté {The summer}, that reflects the color, light, shadows and lifestyle of the of the area.

The airy, contemporary buildings that house this impressive collection are surrounded by a large forest filled with pine and cork trees and acres of land, the perfect setting for their remarkable sculpture garden.

I feel fortunate that I’ve had the pleasure of visiting this place several times and find something new each and every time. If you come, be sure not to miss the intimate St. Bernard Chapel in the garden {which I saw for the first time this visit} where you can take in the light from this beautiful stained glass window above the alter, Oiseau Blanc  {White Bird} by Georges Braque.

Just a 15 minute walk away from The Maeght is another amazing collection of art. But this facility has no rules, no guards and they serve delectable traditional cuisine and wine in an entrancing setting, we’ll get there soon, but first let’s wander around the village to work up an appetite.

We were visiting on a Wednesday, which is market day in St. Paul de Vence, so we stocked up on some of the local products: jars of  tapanade, pesto, honey, some cheeses and a bundle of these portly white asparagus.

On Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday you can find a great selection of local fruits, vegetables and flower’s at Yvette’s market, in the Lavoir {wash house}.

Saint Paul de Vence is a wonderful hill town filled with cobbled paths to roam about and plenty of shops and art galleries.

For more details and views of this ancient village, click on St. Paul de Vence to read a post I wrote after a visit a few years ago {things don’t change much here}.

Now let’s move on to that more intimate little display of art I mentioned, it’s at the fabulous La Columbe d’Or restaurant, where we sat in the courtyard, beneath a lemon tree and overlooking the gardens.

The menu {deliciously} hasn’t changed for decades

Click on le dejeuner to read a previous post I wrote with more sumptuous details on lunch!

The interiors are rich with history of the people who have been coming here since it began back in the 1920’s. One of the most charming rooms is this cozy little coved bar with rustic furniture, an archway that looks out into a courtyard and portraits of Picasso.

I am always mesmerised by the primitive mural behind the bar.

Here is the view from this bar out to the tiered gardens.

If these walls could talk they would tell stories of all of the artists who have visited this inn to meet with people of like minds, paint in the Mediterranean sun, sing, dance, and dine. Many of them traded art to cover their meals, lodging and probably a drink or two.

Which is why you can wander through the restaurant and get up close and personal with Miro,

Calder,

Picasso, Matisse and some pieces by Paul Roux who started this splendid establishment, and it is the Roux family that still runs it today.

On colder days, you can gather by this fire place, which has the hand prints of all of the people who built it, after lunch or dinner.

On warmer days, the pool beckons.

Of course the exteriors are filled with art as well, including this Caldar mobile next to the pool.

Even the “rules” look artistic here, perched upon a well worn easel, bien sur.

If you’re interested in dining or staying at L’ Columbe d’Or, call or email as early as possible because they are always very busy. If you aren’t able to make a reservation, don’t worry, the wonderful restaurant Le Tilleul will probably have an absolutely charming  table for you overlooking the valley and The Med.