St. Paul de Vence

The Street Scene

It’s been a few years since we’ve visited this special town, and let me tell you, it’s charms are not a secret anymore! The ancient, winding, roads were quite busy on this hot summer day. 

Crowded as it may have been, this artistically fertile village is well worth a visit (but, it may be more pleasant during the shoulder season!). The crowds are more of an issue during the day, by late afternoon/ early evening, most have moved on.

I must say, even with the crowds, we had a splendid visit.  With the art, shops and history in the village, the beauty of the surrounding area, and the chance to experience this quality of life, I really cannot complain.  The exceptional light of the area is captivating. I can see why so many famous artists, painters, writers and poets, many of whom lived in and around the village, have found this area to be so inspiring.

In addition to hotels, there are many apartments available for rent in and around the village. Oh, how I’d love to spend a month in a village like this to work on my French and truly master their detente et art de vivre (relaxation and the art of living)!  To learn more about accommodations, click on St. Paul de Vence.

Only pedestrians are allowed on the maze of streets inside the ramparts, which are so narrow, only a Smartcar would be able to make it through. Most of the roads are made of old cobblestones, some are decorated with beautiful mosaics of smooth stones.  

One can look over the walls to see the vineyards which encircle the walls.  Inside, we felt compelled to walk along the ramparts and up through the village.


Up the hill, this grand fountain is the centerpiece of the village, it dates back to 1850.

Above the fountain is the tower, the highest point of the village. Near the tower are some of the older buildings, including the dungeon (13 c) and the Chapell Falon (17 c). 

In the lower portion of the village, this court for boules was full of action and laughter from day to night.

How appropriate to have a sculpture dedicated to the game.
This was my favorite doorway in the village..
don’t the blue flowers look stunning against the stone?
To me, the heart of a Provençal village is the market.  I love taking in the colors and fragrance and just being a part of the local spirit.
On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, market stalls can be found on place du Jeu de Boules. 
On Saturdays, visit Yvette’s market stall, in the wash house at the entrance to the village.
If you love the markets, following the market schedule is a wonderful way to tour Provence. To see a schedule of the top markets in the area, click here.
 Pierre Deux  and Souleiado specialize in the Provençal fabrics, which are such a distinctive element in this region. They have stores in most villages, it’s always fun to see what new fabrics and products they have to offer.
Here is the cemetery where the artist Marc Chegall is buried.  In the cemeteries in the south many of the graves are landscaped with flowering plants, in pots and/or in the shallow beds. Sedums, succulents and other drought tolerant plants are common.
La Petite Chapelle dates back to 1885.  Once an authentic chapel, it is now a restaurant with a lovely terrace and a beautiful view (the food is reportedly mediocre).
Bon Nuit!
Did you notice the lovely light? Cruise back up and look at all of the background shades of blue.

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  • St Paul du Vence is a gorgeous village and I agree perhaps it is better to visit in off peak times – summer in Provence is so busy everywhere. xv

  • So true — I envy your proximity! I loved reading your piece on heading to St. Tropez, Seniquer, Club 55…we used to love staying up in Ramatuelle and visiting that beach. Our favorite beach club was Nouilargo – their Thai (Kai Largo) restaurant is a dream!! If you make it down there, you may want to give it a try. So many beaches, so little time!! @:()

  • Don't have to twist my arm any further…it's now on my list. I am thinking fall but more likely next spring. Thanks for sharing these lovely photos and your impressions.

    ~jermaine

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