And then it started to rain and pioggia {Italian} and pluie {french} and rain some more. Like, so much rain that we weren’t able to hike Le Sireneuse trail, the final hike on the schedule for our Amalfi Coast trek, the hike that was essentially the song that ultimately seduced me into taking the trip. So I left Italy feeling a bit disappointed, but also determined. Determined to somehow take that hike to see the best views of the Il Galli islands from the eastern side of the wildest part of the Sorrento Peninsula overlooking the Golfo di Salerno.
It was this determination that brought me to the extraordinary, eclectic Hotel Don Alfonso 1890 in Sant’agata sui due Golfi, Italia a few months later. My darling daughter had just graduated from Tulane in Architecture and wanted to take some well deserved time to travel before starting to search for a job in design or architecture {plmk if you know of any great positions!} and she loved the idea of going to Sorrento to help me make this dream come true.
After landing in Napoli we hopped into our rented Fiat 500 {a manual, mind you… thankfully I remembered how to shift those gears!}. We bombed up the freeway, skirted around Sorrento, cruised along those famous winding coastal roads {what views!!}, then turned into the bucolic countryside, where we twisted and turned on narrow roads until finally we arrived at the sleepy town of Sant’agata and turned into the serene tree lined driveway of the hotel.
Our car was whisked away and we were seated in the courtyard filled with lemon trees laden with ripe fruit hanging overhead. A server arrived with plates of tasty snacks and thirst quenching glasses fresh squeezed lemonade that we enjoyed as we completed the check in process. As we walked to our room we passed the kitchen for the popular two starred Michelin restaurant which prepares food in the Sorrentine Peninsula tradition, it was humming and clanging in preparation for the evening dinner service. The hotel and restaurant have been owned and operated by the Iaccarino family for generations and we even ran into Don Alfonso himself, who greeted us warmly and inquisitively before rushing back to the kitchen.
As we continued to the elevator we were in awe of all of the beautiful handpainted tilework throughout the newly renovated property.
Each room is uniquely decorated with a touch of whimsy and plenty of color. We were in a lovely lemon yellow room with the most cheery, sunny bathroom. I don’t think I’ve ever featured a bidet and toilet here before, but their presentation, opposite each other, in this tiled corridor in the bathroom just needs to be shared. The yellow and white offered such a clean and fresh feeling to the salle de bain.
Though we didn’t have time to attend, they also have an impressive looking cooking school for guests. The olive oil comes from their olive groves on their nearby, 7 hectares hillside farm where they also grow lemons for their lemoncello and herbs and vegetables for the restaurant.
All of these fabulous features were just like the icing and cherries on top of the cakes on our kitchy headboard to me,
because the main reason I had chosen this hotel was it’s close proximity to the start of Le Sireneuse trail.
After lunch in the courtyard we relaxed in their beautiful pool surrounded by gardens and explored the town a bit.
That night, after dinner, we blended in with the locals at a concert in the piazzata, I loved watching all of the generations dancing together to this magical gypsy music under the stars in front of the church.
After breakfast in the courtyard the next morning, we were ready to hike…
Yeah! Finally received my first Splendid email/post.
Looked like an amazing trip. Happy Labor Day weekend. Cant believe summer is almost over.;(
See you on the courts.
hooray — so happy to have you here! The trip was really great, it’s such an amazing part of Italy, especially if you like hiking and good food {a good vacation combo}. Hoping you had a great weekend. See you on the courts! Thanks for your comment Amy.