The Cours Salaya is the heart of old Nice, it is a long pedestrian walkway/ village square, lined with colorful 18th century homes, the most prominent of which is at 1 place Charles Félix capping the east end of the stretch. Henri Matisse lived here during the 20’s and 30’s in the 4th floor apartment, with the wrap around balcony. He used the 3rd floor as his studio. From the south side of the building {readers right}, Matisse must have had an incredible view of the everchanging light on the beautiful Mediterranean Sea, talk about inspiration. Nice was said to be his favorite place to live and work, he also lived in the suburb of Cimez, the location of the Musée Matisse which holds the largest collection of his work.
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Tuesday through Sunday the striped awnings down the spine of this strip cover vendors selling fresh flowers, produce and other delectables.
On both sides of the market stalls, cafés and restaurants can be found on the street level of the beautiful old buildings. During the day, they provide a place to take in lunch or a coffee without missing a thing. This is prime real estate for people watching and basking in the sun. In the evening, the strip is bustling with nightlife.
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The Cours Salaya runs parallel to the famous Promenade des Anglais, the boulevard that divides the rocky Nice beaches from the famous hotels and casinos.
Before the cooking class I took in December, we all met at a café in The Cours Salaya to buy our ingredients for lunch. While we were shopping, Rosa, of Les Petits Farcis gave us a tour of the Cours Salaya introducing us to her favorite vendors and sharing her passion for the food and culinary history of the area.
Here are some of the highlights:
Seasoned salts are popular in France, there is a huge variety available at most markets, coarse sea salt with Herbs de Provence is a household staple, but that is just the beginning.
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In addition to the seasoned salts they offer salts for different regions of France and beyond, both coarse salts and the flaky fleur de sel. Fleur de Sel is the layer of salt that appears on the surface of the water in salt marshes after most of the water is evaporated. It is delicately raked from the surface of the water {usually by women}.
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Citrus fruit is at it’s peak in the winter, here are some beautiful lemons harvested that morning with their branches and leaves still attached.
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In addition to the fruits, this grower offered homemade marmalade
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and a similar confiture made with green lemons.
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Who needs flowers with fruits like this? I love filling silver bowls with fresh citrus with their leaves and branches.
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The Raisin de Noél is the last grape of the season. These translucent, golden grapes looked gorgeous draped on our dinner table.
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In addition to the produce, there are several stands of baked goods. Tourta de Blea is an unusual and traditional dessert found in Nice.
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The crisp, flaky crust envelopes a satisfying filling made predominately of kale {yes, kale}, pine nuts, rum soaked raisins, apples and orange blossom water, sounds strange, but it is actually very delicious!
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Socca is a street food staple throughout the south of France. In a land flooded with baguettes and croissants, this is a delicious gluten free option. Socca is a giant crêpe made of chickpea flour, traditionally cooked over an open fire. Slices are served in a paper cone with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt. It’s warm and satisfying.
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Marzipan {almond paste} is very popular in France, they almost look too perfect to eat, don’t they?
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I loved the cicadas!
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Behind the Cours Salaya are the winding alley streets of the Vieille Ville {Old Town}, here you can find whatever else you may need for lunch or for dinner.
Wine in France in ridiculously inexpensive, a nice bottle of Côtes de Provence can be found for under 9 euros, and that is one of the more expensive bottles.
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The variety of beautiful artisan cheeses seems to be endless, I think I almost enjoy looking at them more than tasting them.
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Plentiful loaves of fois gras are wrapped in goose fat and plastic, ready to be sliced and served.
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I loved these little nozzle tipped squeeze bottles filled with flavored balsamic vinegars {fig, ginger…} they can be used to decorate platters of cheeses and foie gras and anything else, isn’t that handy?
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I know Christmas is over, but I just had to share this image of one of the beautiful chandeliers that could be found swinging and sparkling overhead throughout the season!
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Thank you for the quick jaunt over to Nice (on a cold, February morning). Great photos! I am fascinated by the salts.
Emily
*** What wonderful, fun memories for me just now! Hubby n' I went to Nice for lunch once, as it was only a few hours from where we were staying… We had a GLORIOUS DAY as well as an INCREDIBLE MEAL, ANNND I "MANAGED" to find a beautiful, antique oil painting to bring home!!!
I am smiling right now, and I THANK YOU for that!!!
Linda in AZ
bellesmom1234#comcast.net
Oh my! That market looks incredible. I would love to try those salts and the cheese and..and.. I am green with envy.
What a wonderful market…loving traveling along with you!!