Market day…when in France these words bring to mind some of the most wonderful sights, smells, tastes and sounds. Want to take a little stroll down the aisles with me??
Even if we don’t buy a thing, this is a chance to be completely immersed in one of the most important parts of the historic heritage of France. Depending on the size, most villages and towns will have a market one day a week, larger towns will have it twice {the St. Tropez market is held in the Place des Lices every Tuesday and Saturday}. Market day is the day that compels all of the town folks to come out to socialize and buy their food, household goods and maybe a few other treasures.
My passion for markets was intensified by a piece of advice from Patricia Wells, an American who has become a leading voice on French cuisine and lifestyle. She recommends that one should tour Provence based on the markets.
In her book The Food Lover’s Guide to France {one of my travel bibles}, she explains that one should spend the night in a town where the market will be held the next day. In the morning, visit the market; shop, absorb the culture, practice the language; and while cruising the aisles, buy a picnic lunch, and maybe a few Provencal napkins…..
{okay, that’s actually my tip, I’ve accumulated a few great collections of these napkins over the years, and they always take me back to wonderful memories of experiences in this section of the world}. This is probably my favorite set, I love the reference to the orange and olive crops in the area:
After exploring the town a little more, drive to the next market town {stopping for that picnic lunch somewhere in between]. Check into a charming little hotel {when it comes to charming hotels, I’ve always found Karen Brown’s recommendations to be right on}, stroll the village, have a nice dinner, then, the next morning repeat the process.
Keep it up and before you know it, you will have a wonderful appreciation for all the region offers and an entrenched understanding of the most fundamental elements of French food, culture and lifestyle. At the bottom of this post you’ll find a link to a comprehensive schedule of all of the markets in the South of France. In Patricia’s book, she lists market days and special celebrations for many of the regions of France.
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| Whole chickens and pork loins roasting and dripping over baby potatoes. |
It was at a market in Provence where my passion for Paella was first pronounced. After ordering enough Paella for 2, in my awkward French I asked for forchettes {forks}. The paella man helpfully handed me 2 large mussel shells, I instantly fell in love with the deliciously unpretentious nature of this dish.
Large pans of Ratatouille can also be found at most markets, to be bought by the scoop. I’ve found the market version to be very fresh and bright tasting.
One of my all time favorite markets is in St. Tropez. In addition to the produce, food and housewares, they have a nice little section of antiquities.
Here, you maybe fortunate enough to come across some rugged old LV pieces… laundry bags, a golf bag… Mr. Vuitton was thinking of everything back then.
You can also find beautiful vintage linens and dressing gowns with the most amazing monograms. I’ve bought many hand towels here in the past and used them to create lampshades and pillows at home. The texture and patina of the fabric is so rich and refined but comfortable and soft at the same time.
Art, books
and other bits of broquante {highend bric~a~brac} are also on display.
Buying clothes at the market can be a bit of a challenge because there are no dressing rooms, but, keep in mind, few are modest here. The great thing about shopping for clothes in the market is that the proprietors are fabulous French stylists. I’ve learned many a tip on how to adjust, accessories and combine my pieces from the tres chic open air merchants in St. Tropez.
In France, the nickname for St. Tropez is “C’est Trop”, meaning “too much” and “too expensive”. A legitimate label for sure. The market is one place that offers an exception to this reputation. Many of the clothing options that are offered in the boutiques in town and at the beach clubs can also be found in the marche, for a few less francs {oui, I know the name of the modern currency, I just prefer the poetic sound of the original}. At the market in St. Tropez, you can shop with the other local {fun and chic} women, find a wide variety of options, accessories galore, receive plenty of styling assistance and a get a bit of a deal.
Thanks for joining me for this little stroll.
For the schedule of the the markets in Provence and further south click on marche.
What a lovely stroll, Emily. Thanks for taking us along. I can smell the ripening melons and strawberries! And wish someone was cooking up that paella for me tonight! Don't you just love Patricia Wells? Taking one of her cooking glasses in on my dream list.
Happy sunny Wednesday! XO
Emily,
Beautiful post. We just returned from Europe, and as much as I'd hoped, we didn't have time to take the train to Provence..
I'm looking for forward to the vintage linens, the LV bags, and the furniture!
Those mussels look wonderful! We had them in Gent, Belgium and they were excellent.
This looks like an amazing trip and thanks for sharing.
leslie
Oh my gosh, Emily! I am in awe here. I love markets, and this post is beautiful. I LV golf bag. Wow. All of the food and produce looks amazing.
Happy Thursday.
Teresa
xoxo
Leslie ~ I hope you'll make it down there on a future trip.
Teresa ~ The produce is as good as it looks, everything just tastes so good over there!
Jeanne ~ I can only imagine the beautiful paintings you would produce after a day at the market!!
Emily, I love the advice Pamela Wells shares and that book is now on my wishlist. I also especially love your idea of collecting linen napkins. Thank you for sharing your photos.
I am off to France in a couple of weeks for the first time more than 12 years and I can't wait to take in the markets. Thank you for getting even more excited! 🙂