The Camino de Santiago has enticed pilgrims from across the world to find their way to the Cathederal of Santiago de Compostela in the Galacian region of northwestern Spain for centuries. Whether for spiritual reasons, a love of nature, quest for personal reflection or a desire to explore Spanish cuisine and culture, walking the Camino is a transformative experience. With a group of girlfriends I started my pilgrimage in Sarria, a common starting point for completing the final 100 kilometers to the cathederal.
There’s nothing like walking through a country to give you a deeper appreciation of the culture, the people, topography, ecology and environment. We walked on rural trails, through countrysides, forests, industrial areas and even crossed a freeway or two.
Sarria is a small charming town with a certain patina that enhances the cobbled streets and historic buildings. Archeological digs in the area have revealed the presence of a considerable pre-Roman settlement.
There was a distinctive buzz in the air from all of the pilgrims wandering about. Some were seasoned visitors others, like us, were preparing to set their boots on the trail for the very first time.
Our level of excitement was palatable when we met our guides from Andaspain. We had all trained hard to be prepared for this 100+ kilometer journey, and were so curious about what the next week would bring. We had done our research but nothing can really prepare you for the moment when you arrive on the actual route you’ve been thinking about for months {or years}.
Other pilgrims were milling about the town as we set out to explore the town and find ourselves some sturdy poles to help us on our adventure. There was definitely an energy of camaraderie as we greeted one another with the traditional “beun camino”, which we would find ourselves saying hundreds of more times during the coming week. We visited Peregrinoteca, the go-to outdoor store to obtain hiking poles, ponchos and a few other items we thought we might need along the way.
We stayed at the Casa Solance which was a very special former farm converted into an incredibly inviting space, deeply authentic, ancient, comfortable.
I think the best possible description of this unique inn is from their website “A haven of peace and beauty where comfort is not at odds with austerity. Crossing our gate on Rúa Maior takes us back to another era where we can experience the importances of the Camino de Santiago”. The Rúa Mayor became a market street during the Middle Ages, primarily due to the pilgrim traffic and today it is the main route through Sarria.
The hosts were so warm and clearly proud and passionate of their country, town and enchanting inn.
The rooms where we stayed were former stables, original stone provided the structure of the rooms but they were comfortably outfitted to make the most particular of humans feel quite comfortable.
Our first evening we dove right into the traditional foods and wines at the restaurant Roma, 1930
Spicy, smoky sausages, thinly sliced prosciutto and cheeses would become a diet staple.
Crisp, light and grassy with high minerality is how I’d describe the local Albariño {al-bah-REE-nyo} wine which became our beverage of choice.
After a hearty breakfast the next day it was time to bid our gracious hosts a fond farewell. Our day packs had a change of clothes, blister kit, raingear, water, snacks and other amenities. The guides gave us a detailed map each day marking our meeting spots, elevations and distances. In the van we placed our suitcases to go to our next hotel and a smaller bag to which we’d have access during the day. In that bag I kept a spare pair of shoes and changed my shoes and socks at lunch each day, which I think kept my feet feeling fresh. In the morning I wore my Hoka Challenger ATR 7 and after lunch I changed in to a pair of Nordas.
After months of training we excitedly took our first steps on the Camino as pilgrims. Stepping out of the town, the busy hum of the village quickly faded away and gave way to long stretches of fieldstone walls, cemeteries, oak and chestnut forests and the sound of birdsong in the air. The first day of walking on the Camino was a beautiful introduction to what we would experience in the coming week. The trail began with a gentle climb out of the town, and soon, the rustic beauty of Galicia surrounded us.
We had 22.6 kilometers or 14 miles to walk to make it to our next stop in Portomarín.
I was grateful to have AndaSpain to arrange our accomodations and kindly guide us through the whole process, but many pilgrims just find an auberge or hostel when they feel they are finished for the day. There are also people who choose to walk at night so they can have their pick of inns to sleep in during the day.
The path is also known as “the way of Saint James”. There are several different routes to to get to the chapel in Santiago where Saint James is said to be buried. We took the popular Camino Francés or French route other routes are the Portugués, de Norte, Primitivo and Ingles click on map to see the lay of the land
Aside from our group chatter the air was filled with the sound of birds singing and the occasional bleating of lambs.
Along the way decorated shrines reminded us of the faithful and hopeful pilgrims who came before us since medieval days.
There were times when we had to yield to herds of cows being moved to greener pastures. Their milk is, of course, key to the cherished regional cheeses, in particular the Tetilla, a cow’s milk cheese in the shape of a woman’s breast that’s renowned in the region.
Each pilgrim is given a log book and to receive your certificate in the end you’re required to get at least 2 stamps each day.
Collecting stamps became a fun part of the adventure. Restaurants, bars, shops, churches and souvenir shops all offered stamps. We tried to get as many as we could without waiting in any long lines.
Why, you may be wondering, did pilgrims begin making their way along this path so many centuries ago? Saint James, a fisherman, was one of Jesus’ 12 apostles. After the death of Jesus “Santiago” {spanish for Saint James} was believed to have preached in the Iberian Peninsula.
Later, he returned to Jeruselem where he was beheaded by King Herod Agrippa the first, becoming the first apostle to be martyred.
His body was placed in rudderless stone boat without a sail and sent out to sea, it washed up on the shores of Galicia.
There his desciples carried his body inland and buried his remains at the Santiago de Compostela. Centuries later, a hermit found them in the 9th century leading to the establishment of the pilgrimage.
We always looked forward to coming upon the ancient stone hamlets along the way where one could find a place to rest, buy a snack or a beverage and see how people lived in this UNESCO world heritage site.
