How wonderful it was to return to Marrakesh this September. Each visit reveals more fascinating things about the rich, exotic culture of this land. This time, amongst other things, I found the Dar Kawa Riad which became the perfect tranquil retreat in the busy Medina.
“Riad” comes from the arabic term “riyad” which means garden and refers to interior Persian gardens, mostly in palaces during the Islamic period. In Morocco “riad” refers a guest house or inn, that’s internally focused on a courtyard which traditionally has citrus trees, a water fountain or cachement and a roof that can be opened or covered for rain and air.
As we pushed open the door {see video on IG -> -> ->} we were calmed by the contrast to the busy alleyways we’d wandered.
Once in this calming sanctuary we were led up to the rooftop for mint tea. Soon 100’s of mosque minarets began broadcasting the muezzin’s calls to evening prayer, the haunting call {or salat} echoing off the buildings.
Click on the video in my instagram over there to take in this incredible experience -> -> ->
As the sun set we moved to a “bhou” {a Moroccan lounge in an indoor-outdoor space} beneath a cream colored tent supported with rustic wooden poles where our dinner was served. The meal began with an array of flavorful dishes made from seasoned eggplants, peppers, quince and zucchini in black and white ceramics that we were able to find in the medina later.
Next we were presented with a soul-satisfying tagine with chicken, olives and lemons. Click on tagine for my go to recipe.
Glasses of local white wine, crisp and cold complemented the meal. For the final course, a rich, thick chocolate mousse, poured into local glass vessels to thicken. Ah, we were settled, satisfied and at home.
The roof top is a great place to lounge and relax during your stay, there is even a small spa where you can enjoy a massage and an outdoor shower. The walls are the traditional Tadelakt, a multi-coat technique of a plaster made with lime, ground stone or sand and olive oil to provide water resistance.
Proprietor Valerie Barkowski looked at many riads when she decided to move to Marrakesh back in 1996 and settled on this 17th century house. It was in poor condition at the time but she saw promise in the bones of the building. She worked with architect Quentin Wilbaux a passionate expert on the traditional details of these homes to create her vision. Using local craftsmen and selecting traditional objects and textiles she created this distinctive abode. To bring a bit of dar Kawa to your world click on Valerie’s SHOP.
The courtyard is the shared living space of Dar Kawa. Here we enjoyed breakfast each morning. It was a place where we could drop our bags and relax between excursions. At night we met with other guests to discuss our day or catch a tuk-tuk to bomb around and catch the night life in the medina. The large orange trees provided tranquility and shade from the sunlight coming through the open roof above.
Riad dar Kawa is featured in the fascinating decor book Nomad at Home by Hilary Robertson. In it she explores “global exoticism” bringing us to 10 unique locations, owned by people with a passion for wandering, design and absorbing different cultures. She’s identified at least three types of Nomadic Tribes: the Adopters have completely relocated to a faraway land; the Escapists are always on the move with a base in multiple locations and then there are the Serial Wanders who “who simply absorb the DNA of any given destination and bring it all back home”. I guess I fall somewhere between the Escapists and Serial Wanderer categories. What I love most about this book are her suggestions to use treasures found abroad to create a “home more travelled” she even provides sources from around the world.
This side room enclosed with a dramatic moorish arch {featured on the cover of the book} and layers of local textiles was an inviting spot to thumb through Ms. Robertsons’ book.
More of our wanderings will be coming soon. This wall and the “17” was the indicator that the entry door was on the left.
