The trails of southern France and Italy reveal an abundance of natural beauty and deeper look into the rich history and culture of the area and sometime a hint of deep, dark mysteries from bygone eras. Never has this been more apparent to me than when I came upon this statuesque structure in the wooded hills above Pigna, Italy.
Never before have I seen anything so grand in appearance left to go to ruin, and I couldn’t stop wondering “why?”
I didn’t need a bell to ring to entice me down the green carpet of grass and through what remained of these doors of the same color with a rich layer of patina.
Upon entering I was awe-struck to see the contrast of grandeur and ruination and I wanted to know how this could have happened, but the answers didn’t come easy.
In this ancient structure there were no placards to tell it’s stories, only Italian graffiti. There was not a tour guide to tell me the history, only the sound of birds singing through the broken out windows.
But, I needed some answers. As soon as possible I started clicking around, collecting clues to a story that would make quite an intriguing movie set in these isolated, lush green hills with a culture that seems to be untouched by time.
It was even difficult to find information on~line, partly due to the different names that have been associated with the structure. Back in 1277 when it was built by the Benedictine Monks it was called Santa Maria di Nogareto, presumably referring to the walnut grove which grew around it. Later the name changed to Santa Maria della Giaira, “gaiara” meaning gravel, referring to the fact that it was built in the stream bed of the hot springs that run down the hill. Today it is commonly called Santa Maria Assunta di Lago Pigo, referring to nearby Lake Pigo, which for centuries has been a source of subsistence for the people of the area but has also been the cause of many battles and potentially is the reason why this building stands abandoned today.
After clicking about for quite some time and gathering bits and pieces of information from a variety of remote sources, I found a consistent story line as to the history of this mysterious place, and it all circles around the water.
The church stands where two streams, one of fresh water and one sulperous once emerge from the Alps into Lake Piga the name comes from the Latin “Lucus Putidus”, or “rotten lake, with a bad smell”. This stream outlet was a site where early Pagans built a temple and practiced their rituals celebrating the purifying qualities of the thermal water. The Benedictines put an end to that by building the massive Santa Maria di Nogareto in place of the Pagen temple, in fact archeologist found pieces of the Pagan temple that were reused in the building of the church.
The church is situated near a bridge that connects the towns of Pigna and Castel Vittorio, two communes which today appear to be blissfully bucolic and preserved from many modern day advancements. But it hasn’t always been so peaceful here. The bridge over the Lago Pigo was repeatedly destroyed over the years as the two warring cultures tried to gain control of the streaming waters. Both sides wanted to dominate this vital water source which was critical to their livelhoods, the fresh water was used to water crops, the flowing streams were the energy source to drive their mills and they coveted the healing properties of the water.
There is another tale that adds to the lore of the land. Hearing of the restorative properties of the waters a young shepherd decided to test the power of the waters by immersing a sick baby lamb in the stream. As punishment for this sacrilegious act the locals say the source of the curative waters disappeared and reappeared further down the lake.
This church and the hallowed grounds it stands upon were highly revered over time, visited by royals and commoners from all over the region. It was rebuilt in the 15th century, decoratively altered in the Baroque area and went through a radical reconstruction in the 18th century. For centuries it was the only Christian church in the Alto {upper} Val Nervia area.
Today there are several smaller churches in these hills, as well a scattering of random religious monuments and shrines, so people have nearby religious options. To take advantage of the restorative properties of the waters today one must visit The Grande Hotel Pigna Antiche Terme below the ruins, where, legend has it, the healing waters were redirected after the shepherd incident.
The Santa Maria Assunta di Lago Pigo seems to be left in the hands of nature, local vandals and maybe even devil worshippers who have lit fires and written “666”, “hell’s door” and other eerie messages on these once cherished walls.
I hope you enjoyed this tale, I found every little twist and turn so fascinating and I am sure there are many more details that we will never know about.
Do you have a favorite ruin story?
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