There are remarkable trails stretching all along the French Riviera, these paths offer stunning access to the rugged wildness of the Mediterranean Sea. My favorite formula for these sorts of adventures is to ensure there is a splendid little beach club at the finish line where one can relish & relax after a big walk.
One of the best options for this scenario is Cap Ferrat. I love doing the full 12 kilometers walk around this peninsula, beginning in Beaulieu~Sur~Mer, passing through the village of Saint Jean Cap Ferrat and then taking the stairs down to Plage Paloma to access the path that goes out to the sea.
If you don’t have the time or inclination to do the full route you can do smaller sections, click on Les Balades for details. Also, if you want to dine at Paloma Beach, but find yourself on a section of the trail that doesn’t end there, they will kindly send this cute little shuttle to fetch you.
The trail around Saint Jean Cap Ferrat is a little more rugged than the one that wraps around Cap d’ail. It offers a bit more of a “wild” experience and a longer journey. It also has beach clubs on each end of the trail, so post hike you can easily plan lunch, dinner, beverages and/or a delicious siesta at Plage Paloma {above, on the east side of the cap} or Plage Passable {on the west side of the cap, images below}. They are both great, but I prefer Plage Passable juste un petit peu plus for its Italian cuisine, pebbly sand, orange umbrellas, views of Villafranche, netted swim area {to keep out the jellyfish} and the fact that the sun stays on the beach much later in the afternoon.
Along the trail there are plenty of man~made and natural access points that will invite you to climb down to the sea for a dip
or to find a private place to sun or picnic on the warm, salt sprayed rocks.
Fragrant pines and jasmine envelope many sections of the trail and there is a beautiful array of wildflowers in the spring and summer.
Residence of the multi~million dollar mansions set back from the trail have private wharfs built into the rugged cliffs where they can tie up their boats, swim and entertain.
As if the views, the botany and scents of pine, salty air and flowers weren’t enough, you can also add a little history and culture to the excursion.
A right turn off the path at Pointe de Saint~Hospice will take you to the historic Domaine de Saint~Hospice
and the beautiful XIth Century Chapelle Saint Hospice devoted to the sailors who have left for sea from these shores for ages.
A sign on the gate says: “The chance of a walk has led you to this chapel at the end of the world;…. Here, so many sailors came the day before they lifted anchor. So many women climbed the hill to find the strength to hope for their return. You are between Earth and Sea. Make silence. “
Imagine the tales this rustic ceiling and these elegantly painted walls could tell.
Below the chapelle is this serene little cemetery, which seems to have a constant soundtrack of birdsongs.
If you start feeling a little peckish midway, fear not, The Grand Hotel du Cap~Ferrat will take you in for a drink, lunch, spa treatments, a dip in the pool or a bit of rest in one of these chic and well~situated little cabanas.
As the path continues, the famous lighthouse at the tip of Cap Ferrat comes into view, a quick hike up the stairs will give you an amazing perspective of the surrounding geography and the sea.
When we completed our journey we changed into lounge wear, cooled our toes in the sea
and then enjoyed a lovely Sunday lunch with our toes in the sand, glasses of crisp white Côte de Provence and the promise of comfy matalase and protective umbrellas at Plage Passable.
What did we eat? I enjoyed fresh grilled fish for my main course and started with this fabulous artichoke salad, simply made with sliced baby artichokes {just the tender parts}, lemon juice, salt and topped with slices of parmigiana.
Thank you for joining me for this little excursion.
cindy hattersley says
That artichoke salad looks amazing. I think I will try to copy it. WEre the artichokes grilled? What a lovely hike…I wish I were there right now!
splendid says
Dear Cindy; No grilling. These are the baby artichokes. After removing the tougher outer leaves you thinly slice the tender inner leaves and the crown {removing the prickly portion}, then sprinkle with lemon and salt. I’ll do a complete post on it soon. It has great texture, that sweet, grassy artichoke taste and the freshness of the lemon juice. Thanks for stopping by!
Kelsey says
fabulous guide! thank you for the tips.
splendid says
Merci Madamemoiselle!