Currently there is only a single train track that runs from Singapore to Bangkok and back. During our time on that track on board the Eastern and Oriental Express there were workers all along the line building a second rail. As it was, we needed to stop and wait several times for other trains passing, such congestion is what delayed our arrival, so the sun was setting by the time we rolled into Bangkok.
I’m not complaining, I loved having extra time on that lovely train!
We piled into the awaiting vans but when we reached the Royal Dusit District the evening gridlock traffic brought us to a complete stop, so we hit the steamy, bustling sidewalks and proceeded on foot along the busy streets to get to the splendidly stylish Siam Hotel.
What an oasis!
I wonder what those streets are like today, in the time of the virus?
The elegant Siam hotel is perfectly perched on the Chao Praya River, which is the major thoroughfare for getting around in Bangkok… by boat. Each hotel has there own beautiful ship to transport you and if you’re not at a hotel, there are taxis and a regular river transportation system with stops {just like bus-stops} all along the river.
The Siam is a part of the Sukosol family hotel collection. The decor is a blend of art deco and traditional Thai style.
There are lush gardens and water features throughout the sprawling grounds.
In addition to the sumptuous furnishings, each room was decorated with eclectic antiques and art from the families collection. They also had a lovely little shop with home decor and jewelry, some antique, some new, all carefully curated.
The next morning started out in the gym with a session of Muay Thai, the traditional Thai kick boxing which is practiced for defense but also for fitness and emotional well-being. After teaching us the moves, our great instructors indulged us with a chance to take some punches in the ring. I’m hoping to find a place in Seattle where I can do more of this, it was such fun and a great work-out, do any of you practice kick-boxing??
After a delicious, healthy breakfast at the Deco Bar and Bistro we sped off to the an extraordinary Buddhist temple Wat Suthat Thepwararam or
วัดสุทัศนเทพวราราม .
Shoes removed, we sat on the floor of this space of grandeur to listen to the mesmerizing morning chants of the monks and present them with “alms”.
Take a listen, hopefully it will bring you a sense of tranquility in this uncertain time.
Almsgiving is a tradition in the countries, like Thailand, that practice Theravada Buddhism. It is believed to foster a spiritual connection between the monks and the lay Buddhist.
The community believes they bear the responsibility to care for the physical needs of monks, and, in return, the monks are expected to care for the spiritual needs of the community.
Monks are a conduit through which a Buddhist can earn merit to further their journey toward true enlightenment or Nirvana. They earn merit by these almsgivings of gifts and financial support to the monks.
Alms are usually food but can also be flowers, incense sticks, towels, or other basic necessities. The monks will not speak to or thank the almsgiver because alms are not seen as charity. Instead, alms are an element of a symbiotic spiritual relationship between a monk and a lay Buddhist, and maybe budding buddhists??
Incense wafted through the air as we strolled the grounds.
Ancient, intricate paintings on the walls told historic tales and mythologies.
I loved, loved, LOVED all of the flowers piled up on the shrines; plump lotus buds, orchids
lotus blossoms
marigolds, jasmine and orange blossoms.
Coming soon, I’ll take you to the flower market of ALL flower markets where copious amounts of these delights are found.
In addition to lavish garlands of marigolds a refreshing beverage with a straw awaits this buddha.
Candles and sticks of incense are other traditional offerings for the buddha shrines.
Also, you can buy small squares and stars of gold leaf to help gild the shrines, you can see some pieces that were pressed onto this one below.
I am so very grateful that we were able to take this trip when we did and that I can share the wonder and beauty of this amazing area of the world, as it was, with you. I flew home through Hong Kong just as word of Corona Virus was starting to appear on the news.
As I was doing my research to write this piece, I received a message from Abercrombie and Kent that they were temporarily halting all of their ground operations. I felt so sad when I read on the website for the Siam Hotel that they are now closed indefinitely.
I hope you and yours are safe and well.
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