“Duty” called me to export myself to the South of France again last week, with just 2 days notice. Though I was busy with said and yet to be discussed “duty”, I did have some time to catch up with friends and revisit a few of my favorite haunts while I was there.
If you are new to Splendid Market, you may not know that my family and I moved to Eze-bord-du-Mer in the South of France for 6 months last year. During our stay I wrote about as many wonderful experiences as I could, but during this quick little return, I realized that there are many splendid things I’ve yet to share. I know some of you are off to the South this summer, so I am going to focus on this region of France, recounting how I spent my limited free time with just 4 days roaming between Villafranche and Eze, in this region I love.
By the time I got to my stark little hotel room, with a great view of the bay of Villafranche, I was feeling a little dazed and overwhelmed. But then I realized it was dinnertime, and I knew just where I needed to go to get back on track. Restaurants line the waters edge of this harbor town, so you can sit right on the Med while enjoying the local fare. La Mere Germaine is one of the more famous and popular establishments on this strip, and I was happy to make it my first first stop, to enjoy their memorable Bouillabaisse in their cozy teak wood dining room, which reminds me of an elegant, classic yacht.
I do love all of the fish and the bottomless bowl of broth that comes with this traditional French soup, but I must admit, my favorite thing is the baguette toasts that one can slather with the delicious garlicky aioli and float on the top of the soup. After the toast soaks up enough of the soup, it becomes a wonderful mouthful of flavor.
So I ended up sleeping very well that night, full of French food and a glass of rosé and dreaming about my first appointment for the next day.
Before I even left Seattle, I had set up my second stop of the trip at Carole Coiffure.
I first visited this nondescript looking shop in the Port of Beaulieu sur Mer just because I liked the name and didn’t know where else to go for hair care. But, in Carole’s able hands I received the best hair cut and colors I have ever had in my life, and she even helped me with my French. Over the months we all went to Carole and loved the results. I think a BIG part of “the secret” of the covetous beauty of the French women is that good hair services are almost a right in this country. In general, I have always heard, and found, that the French hairdressers have above average skills, for a portion of the costs of similar services in the US.
So, do what I did if you’re planning a trip to France, cross off “hair appointment” from your to-do list {you’ll probably have way too much to do anyway} and just set up and appointment with Carole, or take a chance at a local salon where you are going. Insider’s tip: Carole only works a couple of days a week now, and the name of the shop will be changing soon, since she’s selling it to go into semi-retirement. Be sure to call in advance to book an appointment with this incredibly talented woman.
Emily, can't wait to hear more about your adventures in the South of France! I've yet to set foot in that part of the country, so can't wait to live vicariously through you. Lovely to see you on Saturday – your hair looked lovely and now I know your secret! XOXO