a tagine on a rainy day in Antibes…

Tagines come from Northern Africa, where they have long been used to make slow-cooked meals over an open fire in the desert. I know crockpots have been making a big comeback lately, I think I’m the last girl on the block to buy one. But somehow, I am more interested in cooking in a tagine, I think they are kind of the original crock pot. This is a serving tagine {not suitable for cooking} I found at the Cours Salaya market.

The top and bottom of a traditional tagine are made of clay that is fired at a high heat and can be put over a flame. Back at home, I have a blue Le Cruset tagine, with a cast iron base and a stoneware top, in which I’ve made a few interesting dishes.  I also ordered a more authentic blue all clay tagine, because the Le Cruset only holds enough to feed 4 or so, and I thought it would be fun to serve a tagine dinner for a larger group. But I’ve been hesitant to actually put the clay over a flame. I know it’s been done for hundreds of years, but I was always afraid it would crack over the heat and dinner will be all over the stove.

Until, the other day, when I found myself walking in the rain alone in Antibes. Long story made short, I was feeling sad and soggy. But after a few pitiful moments I decided to shake off my Eeyore blues and make the most of my day in this promising village. I roamed the narrow, winding streets for awhile, looking for a place to have lunch.  A bright yellow door caught my eye, so in I walked, drippy and hungry.

I felt an immediate rush of warmth from the orange walls, exotic smells and the intimate space. Most any combination of blue and orange seems to make things right in the world for me, so I felt at home as soon as I sat down.

I ordered a chicken tagine with olives and preserved lemons. It came to the table with the cone-shaped lid still on top of the clay bottom. When they lifted the lid my lunch was bubbly hot. I wondered if it had been put in an oven or a stovetop to get this hot and continued to contemplate the cooking process as I took in the flavorful broth, vegetables, aromas and a side of cous cous.

After lunch, there was a plate of sweet dates.

Then the owner came out to see how I liked the lunch. I asked him all about how he made the dish and how to use a clay bottom tagine safely on a stove top. He told me what to do, and then, I couldn’t believe this, he gave me a tagine to take home. How nice.

After a glass or two of sweet mint tea, I braved the rain again and headed out to find the ingredients for a tagine dinner.

I followed all of his steps and and my first tagine turned out beautifully. Sorry, no measurements this time around.

But here is what he told me: put the tagine over medium low heat, and add some olive oil and in it cook some chopped onions. When they are translucent add ground ginger, Chinese 5-spice, saffron, salt, pepper and cinnamon. Cook the spice mix for a few minutes, then put in pieces of chicken and peeled potatoes, {if using chicken with skin on, put the piece skin down, it will brown a little, being close to the heat source}. Add preserved lemons and olives, and add water {don’t add too much, or it will bubble over while it is cooking, pour in enough to fill the bottom 1/2 way to the top}. Cook over a slow fire until the chicken is cooked through and the potatoes are tender.

Top it with chopped parsley or cilantro and serve.

carrots and sliced dried apricots.