Here’s the great thing about Sunday’s in France {once you get used to the concept}… they are meant for relaxing. Around 1pm almost all retail stores {including grocery stores} close. What remains open are museums, some restaurants and of course the parks and beaches. Therefore, running errands is not an option on Sunday afternoons. Instead, it is a time preserved for long leisurely lunches with friends and family, at home or at a restaurant; and/ or relaxed lingerings at museums, beaches or parks.
Today, my daughter and I headed out to explore Cimez, a very nice neighborhood on a hill in Nice and the location of the Musée Matisse. This museum holds the world’s largest collection of his work, but it feels small and very intimate, so one can get very close to the art and really appreciate each brushstroke or cut out the artist made. I especially love his collages {or goaches découpés}, and managed to sneak a quick shot of one of my favorites, Nu bleu IV {no flash, of course}. It is so beautiful to see in “real life”, my image doesn’t even do it justice. What makes it so interesting to see in person are the cutout pieces of painted blue paper that he pieced together in a way that gives the body realistic dimension and shape.
The museum is in a former villa, the exterior of which is painted in one of my favorite color combinations in this area, deep raspberry, with green shutters and apricot trim. Matisse lived in Nice for more than 50 years, and also died here, so in addition to many of his art pieces, this beautiful old home contains many artifacts and photos from his life donated by the artist and his family.
The musée is set in a lovely olive grove, in a park where friends and family gather, stroll and play on Sundays.
On Sunday the park was filled with the sounds of busy French voices, laughter and the distinctive clacking sound of pétanque balls making contact.
Centuries ago, this hilltop was a the location of a former Roman civilization. The park is encircled with ruins, including a bath house and amphitheatre which date back to the 3rd century, they offer quite a contrast to the prevailing belle epoque buildings that surround the area. There is an Archeology Museum in the park that holds many of the findings from this area, but it was closed when we visited.
We parked near this magnificently ornate Franciscan Monastery, adjacent to the park.
Henri Matisse is buried in the historic cemetery next to the Monastery.
After our exploration, we went to do what the French do best, enjoy a late lunch. We dropped into a café in the Cours Salaya {I was suffering from a mad craving for steak and potatoes}. My craving was quite satisfied, especially on the potato front. They served my steak, which was {apologetically} over done with hand cut french fries, a serving of chopped potatoes sautéed in olive oil, garlic, butter and herbs and then these silky~smooth aligote potatoes, which are puréed potatoes blended with a seductive mix of Conte cheese, cremé fraiche {or butter and cream} and other seasonings, after trying this, I don’t know if I can ever enjoy basic mashed potatoes again!
I think I can get used to this.
A lovely Sunday in Nice… I had a similar one just last year, and I, too, enjoyed my day on Cimiez Hill. With the Holidays approaching, I would not be surprised if the Galeries Lafayette near place Masséna opened even on Sundays… so you can fill your shopping craving 🙂 Veronique (French Girl in Seattle)
What a heavenly Sunday, Emily. How wonderful to enjoy a relaxing afternoon by whiling it away with Monsieur Matisse! Hope your language classes are going well. I'm sure you are going to wow us all with your French speaking skills when you return! XOXO
PS- I am envious of the balmy weather -it's been so soggy here. The Tennis Club flooded! No rain today, but it is quite cold. Enjoy the sun!
Are you kidding me! Potatoes 3 ways and baby greens with steak on the side – heaven.
Cheers!